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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. However, situated high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest place earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.